ignorance. Who knows anything about surfing when they’re previously from Nebraska? But today, her expression was that of a school nun, tight, pursed lips, but the rest of her face was that of a terrified child. Something was wrong, so very wrong. The man, who had watched just as long as me, gasped, heaved up his arm, and pointed and yelled, “shark!” Almost instantly, she was jerked under her board as the sea swallowed her, limbs and all. That must’ve been the hardest I’ve ever ran. I wasn’t any…
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