Brandon Bunch
GWRTC 103
J. Zevnik
19 March 2014

Laird Hamilton- The Poster Child of Big Wave Surfing

Hawaiians invented the art of riding waves during the 1700’s because they found pleasure in sharing waves with one another and thus adapted it into their culture. The sport of surfing has since evolved immensely. Surfboards have developed from the 16 foot wooden planks named olos. Today typical surfboards are made from polyurethane foam and fiberglass. The evolution in surfboard design allows for surfers to push the limits in wave riding. Surfing can be found by coastlines, lakes and rivers all around the world. The boundaries of this sport are tested in small and big waves alike. Smaller waves allow for high performance surfing. High performance surfing is being able to link a variety of turns and aerials together on a single wave. Surfing big waves requires a different kind of performance. To be able to surf the largest waves this planet can create, requires immense know how and peak physical condition. Waves get to be so large that they break too fast for traditional paddle-in methods. To over come this barrier jet skis are used to give surfers a “running start.” This method of riding waves is referred to as tow-in surfing. Laird Hamilton and his tow team invented, perfected and established the norm for big wave surfing. Hamilton single handedly progressed the subculture by throwing the sport into the publicity’s eyesight. Tourists and locals alike stood bewildered at the sight of 30 foot waves breaking. Eyes were fixed and confused why a small boat was zig zaging in-between sets of waves. In 1992 Hamilton and friends charged the North Shore of Oahu’s outer reef breaks. They used a 16 foot inflatable Zodiac raft to tow each other into giant waves. This technique, tow surfing allowed for the surfers to be pulled into waves bigger than ever ridden before. This session opened surfer’s eyes about what was possible. The speed created by the Zodiac ultimately lead to the surfers being able to catch lots of waves without getting tired. Through the 90’s Hamilton and his friends perfected this technique and became known as “The Strapped Crew” because their surfboards were fastened to their feet. (“History of Big Wave Surfing”). They dominated Maui’s best big wave spot Peahi. Hamilton and the crew surfed the spot so well they renamed it Jaws. Hamilton and his friends became known globally for their talent. The Strapped Crew are the reason surfing progressed into what it is recognized today.
Over the years Hamilton continued to push the boundaries of big wave surfing. The stage was set for success; huge Pacific swells exploded on the razor sharp Tahitian coastline. The Strapped Crew engraved themselves in history in the beautiful French Polynesian islands. On August 17, 2000 Laird Hamilton was towed into the “Millennium Wave” (“This Day in Surfing”). The break Teahupoo is known for how shallow the reef is in the impact zone of the waves. Matt Warshaw author of The Encyclopedia of Surfing exclaimed “It wasn’t as much of a wave but instead an oceanic shift. It’s the heaviest wave ever ridden. What could be heavier?” (“Most Significant Ride in Surfing History”). The ride was heard around the world. Laird Hamilton became the iconic poster child of big wave surfing. The subculture of surfing revolves around a premise of outdoing one another. However the Millennium Wave pushed the benchmark to an unreachable feat. Hamilton claimed the throne of big wave surfing by riding Teahupoo fearlessly. This undoubtedly cemented Hamilton’s credibility as king. Laird Hamilton is recognized globally for his accomplishments in and out of the water. He represents the subculture in a positive manor due to his unique lifestyle. The sport of surfing requires being in good mental and physical condition. Hamilton fits that profile impeccably, he is 6’3, 220 lbs. and competes avidly in triathlons (Hall.) Hamilton used his fame from surfing to stand